Across the country, the morning chai (tea) vendor became a democratizing force. In Chennai, filter coffee was served in a stainless steel dabara set; in Kolkata, a chaiwala poured creamy, cardamom-infused tea into clay cups (kulhads). The act of drinking chai is India’s great equalizer—the CEO and the cleaner stand at the same stall, discussing the monsoon or the cricket match.
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